Where in the world, is Swaziland?

I hope that for some of you, this title reminded you of the awesome show on PBS about 15 years ago called, “Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego.”  That, not surprising now, was my favorite show- I was even in my grade school geography-bee because of it.  And here I am traipsing around the world just like Carmen.  Unfortunately, my geography knowledge failed me when I got my assignment four years ago as a Peace Corps Volunteer.  I ripped open my assignment packet, “Yes, I’m going to Swaziland!”

“Where is Swaziland again…?”

According to my globe, Swaziland is a small country in Southern Africa almost completely surrounded by South Africa, except for the eastern side that borders Mozambique.  It is about the size of New Jersey and has a population of about 1.1 million.  Its economy is mostly agriculture based, with corn and sugar cane as it’s biggest exports. 

It is actually called the Kingdom of Swaziland and is one of the last absolute monarchies.  King Mswati III is the current king.  Swaziland gained independence in 1948 from England.  Back in colonial days it was considered a protectorate and made a rather peaceful transition out of colonial rule.  Today the King has almost complete power.  Political parties are banned, but there is an elected parliament.  I think it’s a pretty American impulse to automatically think any non-democratic government is wrong, but some people strongly believe that the kingship and the preservation of the Swazi cultural structure is what kept Swaziland from civil unrest during independence, unlike so many of it’s African neighbors.   If you are interested in learning more about this political tension, “Without the King” is a documentary that focuses on these issues.

While the kingship may have spared civil war, Swaziland continues to face many challenges.  66% of the population lives below the poverty line, and Swaziland has the highest rate of HIV in the world with a TB/HIV coinfection rate of 80%.   HIV has wiped out a significant portion of the working population, as people of reproductive age (those most susceptible to HIV infection because they are sexually active) are also the most productive members of society.  This affects the economy, but also contributes to a growing OVC population.  OVCs are orphan and vulnerable children.  Nercha, the national emergency response council on HIV/AIDS, estimates that 23% of all children in Swaziland have lost one or both parents and 31% are considered orphaned or vulnerable. 

Swaziland is a beautiful country known for its incredibly friendly people.  There are four regions in Swaziland: Hhohho, Manzini, Lobombo, and Shiselweni.  I currently live in the Hhohho region.  The capital city is Mbabane and the national language is Swati.  SiSwati has 3 clicks and a series of other tricky sounds like hl, tf, and ts.  And don’t forget about wildlife!  Swaziland is home to 498 species of birds (so, Mom, I guess there are a few birds here after all!), the “Big 5” and many diverse indigenous trees and flora. 

But I guess you could have gotten most of that information from a guide book…  What do I like about the Kingdom of Swaziland?  I like hopping onto a crowded khombi (like a small bus) that’s blasting music, drinking emahewu (a sour corn drink) at the end of a long, hot day, being called by my siSwati name: Jabulile Buthelezi, the stunning scenery, the amazing people, goofing around with Swazi kids, and the incredible sense of community I feel here.

I suppose it was worth the 23 hour flight… for the THIRD TIME!  

Horoscope

According to the Swazi Times newspaper last week, this was my horoscope:

There could be some worry about not being useful or being left out of the scheme of things today.  This can be eased by jumping in with both feet and putting your thoughts into action.  This is a time to take risks and dare to be a little eccentric.  You will prosper through new insights and an independent point of view.  Your career could open up now- keep your ears and eyes open so that you do not miss some important opportunity.

Hmmm...  Couldn't have said it better myself!

The Sum of 6 Weeks

 The blog is up, at last!  Most of you know that mass communication is not my “thing,” so please still humor me with some personal emails. 

It is a beautiful Monday in Swaziland.  Spring has come and has brought a string of very unpredictable weather, but today it is sunny and feels like it is 70 degrees F.  So far my study has generated a lot of interest, which has afforded me the opportunity to network and be involved in a number of diverse activities.  This morning I sat in on a meeting at the WHO office on palliative care.  Since roughly 50% of Swazi’s are living with HIV, there is a lot of emphasis on the need for care giving with this chronic illness.  So we really need to be looking at those care givers and how they are coping… which is where I come in!

But let me jump back and give you an idea of what I’ve been up to.  Here’s my list:

In August I spent 2 and a half days in Johannesburg on the way to Swaziland at the South African Anxiety and Depression Group’s office.  They did the study on Home Based Care Givers in South Africa that gave me the idea for my study in Swaziland.  I was able to travel to a township and visit a counseling center they recently set up in a trailer to support the needs of the township.  We also went to a nearby school and met with the principal to organize a training on mental health among teachers and to set up a support group at the school.  I also spent time in the office gathering materials including Speaking Books on various topics.  Speaking Books were designed to help people with low literacy “read” the book, and are such a wonderful tool!  While at the office I also listened in on the mental health support counseling line, and had dinner with the executive director.

The first couple of weeks in Swaziland were spent meeting with Simon Khumalo (my Red Cross contact), Denise Mortlock (Mental Health Support Group Leader), attending my host Rotary club meetings, and setting up meetings with the Red Cross Director and my supervisors and the University of Swaziland.  I also ran around getting my immigration documents in order, getting my student ID, and visiting Mambane (my Peace Corps community). 

August 10^th I attended an in-service training at the Manzini Psychiatric Hospital on Bipolar Disorder and met one of the two psychiatrists in all of Swaziland.  August 26-28^th I attended the Rudasa Rural Health in Southern Africa Conference.  This conference was held in Swaziland for the first time this year.  I really enjoyed this conference because it gave me a good indicator of what’s been done in Swaziland since I was last here in 2007 and also what has been successful in other countries.  Task-shifting was one of the major issues that was discussed to help with the human resources issue.  This year the first Physician’s Assistant program was established in South Africa, and there is talk of developing a medical school in Swaziland.

In August I also started my service work.  I have chosen to volunteer at the Baylor clinic in their teen club.  Teen Club is a support group for HIV+ children aged 10-18.  The Teen Club in Mbabane has over 150 children participating.   Check out their website at: http://bayloraids.org/programs/swaziland/adolescent.php.  The Baylor Clinic specializes in pediatric HIV and is the only center of it’s kind in Swaziland.  They have several satellite clinics and also provide training for nurses and doctors in the care and treatment of HIV in children.  The Baylor doctors facilitated my Peace Corps technical training in HIV and I have a lot of respect for their work in Swaziland.

In September I attended Umhlanga, which is the largest festival in Swaziland.  Also called the Reed Dance, young girls (they are supposed to be virgins) participate in this week-long ceremony which culminates on the last day with a dance for the King (where the King has the option of choosing a wife).  Do not worry- I did not participate in the ceremony- I only watched, so I was NOT chosen J

I have also met with my supervisors at uniswa (the University of Swaziland), the Red Cross, and the national coordinator for the RHM program to go over my surveys.  I’ve been over my demographic questionnaire so many times that I don’t ever want to look at it again!  However, a lot of great recommendations have come from these meetings and I am really pleased with the changes that were made.  I have also made arrangements to get the surveys translated, which should be done by this weekend.  The next steps are to present the research project to the ethics committee at the Ministry of Health and Social Welfare on September 24^th.  We have also decided to expand the research and survey 1,000 participants!  I am going to hire 10 research assistants who will collect the data at 10 research sites (one site per day and each re

SiSwati classes should start up either this week or next.  I have arranged to join in a class at the international high school that will go until December.  Then in January I will get a private tutor, as I will be too advanced for the existing classes.  My comprehension has improved, but I’ve been slacking on speaking siSwati since most people automatically speak to me in English in the capital. 

Rotary:

I’ve attended 5 meetings and been to two clubs (will attend a third tonight) and joined (as an honorary member) the Rotaract club.  The Mbabane-Mbuluzi Rotaract organized a retreat for their club plus the Manzini and Uniswa clubs to foster more fellowship in the clubs and help retain members.  I attended this 3 day retreat at Mlawula, a nature reserve in the northeast of Swaziland.  There were about 26 Swazis and me!  It was a great way to meet Swazis my age, build friendships, practice siSwati, and learn more about the Rotaract clubs.  Rotaract is for young adults under 30, so it is a perfect way for me to connect with like-minded Swazis.  Besides that, I really needed to let my hair down and have some fun, after weeks of meetings and first impressions. 

            Last week I spoke at my host club and it went very well.  I really enjoy the club because it is pretty casual, small, and I have gotten to know some of the members well already.  Most of them are appalled that I don’t have a car and am using public transportation, and so have been very generous with rides.  They have also taken me to the Mbabane Club, which has been fun!  My host counselor is a professor at the university and teaches literature.  We’ve bonded over discussions of African Literature, and if I have enough time, I plan to audit her African Literature course next semester.  She was also instrumental in the acquisition of my student ID, which took 2 days of running around. 

            So, things are going quite well.  I feel so overwhelmed with how cool this opportunity is, and how connected I’ve gotten since my arrival.  Know that I think of you often and hope you are well. 

            Sahle Kahle (Stay Well)

            -Carrie/Jabulile